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Dyneema vs Nylon
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TOPIC: Dyneema vs Nylon
#192
Dyneema vs Nylon 6 Years, 6 Months ago  
Hi all,
Sparking a new discussion here;

DMM has done some tests on slings used as tie in points at anchors. Specifically, they looked at the classic 120 cm sling, but also the 60 cm sling. They looked at how slack between you and the anchor would affect the sling you're clipped to. They looked at what knots do to the system, and they looked for differences between the 16mm Nylon slings and the new sexy 11mm Dyneema slings.

Here's a link to the page: dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/how-to-break-nylon-dyneema-slings/
There's a video of their testing and the engineer does a very thourough summary of the results afterward.

Here's my quick and dirty summary:
1. Minimize or eliminate any slack between you and the anchor point; (I might even go so far as to suggest that you eliminate slack in the anchors too, but that is all about good anchor design).
2. Eliminate knots in your tie-in sling.
3. Use Nylon slings for tie-in wherever possible.

As with any testing, results are specific, however, these seem fairly thorough, however to quote Cyril 'it depends', and you should always inform yourself so that you have the best information to make the best decision for your situation.

Cheers
P
Peter H. Lloyd
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