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Bow Valley Route Ethics Survey
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TOPIC: Bow Valley Route Ethics Survey
#389
Bow Valley Route Ethics Survey 3 Years, 3 Months ago  
Hello,

A survey of route creation and maintenance ethics has been published for the Bow Valley.

bowvalleyclimbing.com/

I haven't crunched the numbers, but some preliminary stats are available on the webpage.

This is probably not an exercise for the faint of heart. No matter your stance, you will be confronted by self righteous indignation. However, there are reasonable people out there, and because they are reasonable, they know when to hide.
Matthew Breakey
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#390
Re:Bow Valley Route Ethics Survey 3 Years, 3 Months ago  
Did you know? The Calgary Section has a topo comp for the 2014 year!

Please enter, details at: www.acccalgary.ca/club-activities/topocomp.html
Matthew Breakey
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#391
Re:Bow Valley Route Ethics Survey 3 Years, 3 Months ago  
I did! That's great! How many entries do you foresee getting? It would be great if this competition caught on!
David Roe
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#392
Re:Bow Valley Route Ethics Survey 3 Years, 3 Months ago  
Some survey results:

There were 434 responses, demographics at (bowvalleyclimbing.com/)

1) { 28.3% of the survey results say that } I have replaced aging or damaged bolts, hangers, or stations with new hardware of the same or similar type (retrofitting)
2) { 9.4% of the survey results say that } I have replaced aging fixed gear (pitons) with bolts (retrofitting)
3) { 7.6% of the survey results say that } I have added permanent bolts to an existing route that did not have either existing pitons or bolts in that location (retro-bolting).

The following questions were crunched by giving a positive response a +1, a negative response a -1 and neutral or no response a zero. Strong agreement or disagreement does not count for more as each persons vote should count equally (unless they don't care). The responses were then summed, and divided by the total to give an indication of broad support or broad condemnation. A 0% is neutral, a -100% if every single response disagreed and 100% if everyone agreed. i.e. If 200 agreed, 35 disagree and the remainder were neutral, the score would be 38%. If 250 responses agreed and no-one disagreed, the score would be 58% because neutral responses do not count as support, but do count in the total number of responses.

Statements with general community support
4) { 66% } I support upgrading any existing rappel anchors with the best gear possible (including upgrading pitons to bolts, or rap tat to bolts)
5) { 60% } I support replacing original fixed piton belay stations with modern fixed bolts
6) { 59% } I support improving or adding rappel stations on any route as long as it does not change the character of the climb itself.
7) { 44% } I support adding bolted stations to select high traffic routes because I believe it improves safety and reduces accidents.
8) { 42% } I support replacing aged fixed gear with like kind (bolt for bolt or piton for piton)
9) { 38% } I support replacing piton rappel stations with bolts, but not rap tat.
10) { 38% } I support adding modern bolted rappel stations only on very high traffic routes.
11) { 36% } I support replacing fixed pitons with modern bolts.

Statements with mixed/neutral community support
12) { 22% } I support removing an original piton from a route without replacing it if clean pro is available.
13) { 16% } I support adding modern bolted rappel stations on any route. All routes should have the safest decent possible.
14) { 7% } I support adding NEW bolts to an established route to reduce a dangerous run-out
15) { 5% } I support removing an original bolt from a route without replacing it if clean pro is available.
16) { -2% } I support removing fixed protection (either bolts or pitons, non-anchor) where clean gear is available. 
17) { -5% } I support adding bolted stations only to high traffic routes because I believe it improves accessibility.
18) { -11%} I support adding NEW bolts to an established route to improve safety
19) { -24%} I support the process of "Bolt chopping" on retrofitting or retro-bolted established traditional routes in the Rockies.

Statements with general community condemnation
20) { -26%} I support removing fixed protection (including fixed anchors) where clean gear is available.
21) { -26%} I support adding bolted stations to any route that was originally protected only by gear belays
22) { -32%} I support retrofitting aging or damaged rappel anchors with similar gear (pitons with pitons), but not upgrading to bolts.
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