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The Fold
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TOPIC: The Fold
#367
The Fold 3 Years, 11 Months ago  
Some additional beta on The Fold to supplement info posted at www.mountainproject.com/v/the-fold/107207273.

My comments are preceded by my initials.

Approach: 1 hour
Descent: 2-3 hours [KL]: 2-4 hours
Climb: 5-8 hours [KL]: 8-10 hours
Sun Exposure: All Day
Length: 11 pitches
Difficulty: 5.8 PG13
Rack: Double set of cams from tiny to 3" (#3 camalot), some nuts (optional RP's), knifeblade and baby angle pins (also optional).
[KL]: Double up on 0.3 through #1 (Red), tricams doubling up on pink and red, micro-cams. Brought hammer and pitons for bailing, but never used on ascent.

The Fold is a spectacular climb up a rib of Mount Kidd. The views are spectacular and the climb is right next to Kidd Falls. The climbing is on mostly good to excellent rock with good pro on the crux sections. However, the climb is still very adventurous and skill at building belays with limited options is an asset. Bolts / fixed pins are few and far between, but the route is safe (PG13) and no pins are needed (as of 06/2011) if comfortable at the grade.

Be very wary of large loose blocks (particularly pitch 7) as this route has not received nearly as much traffic as other classics in the area.

I felt Direttissima on Yamnuska was technically much more difficult, but with much easier routefinding and belays.

P1: Climb out of the gully, just uphill of the tree on the ridge, through easy ledge systems to gain the ridge. Fixed nut right where you turn onto the ridge.

P2: Head up an easy groove with good pro, then traverse left onto loose ledges below a headwall. [KL]: 3 pin belay

P3: A hidden fixed pin down low and another 1 move up the wall protects the opening moves onto the somewhat overhanging crack system. Easier than it looks and good pro. [KL]: 5.7/8

P4: Easy scrambling leads to another steep section of wall. Belay on right in a good crack or do a seat belay from the nice flat platform. [KL]: Could not link with P5

P5: Climb the steep juggy wall with decent to good pro. Belay above at a huge grassy ledge with a good crack.

P6 "The Wave": Climb the right side of the wave to an awesome hand crack with excellent pro once you get there. [KL]: 5.8. Used (2) Red #1 Camalots. Either belay at the crack (semi-hanging) or finish the crack, climbing up and left of the roof and belay just above on the right side of the roof (easier than it looks [KL]: From far away this looks like the crux of the pitch, but it is only 5.5/.6) at a decent crack and great ledge. Beware of rockfall at this belay! Alternatively, climb on top of the wave (stay left for whole pitch) at an easier grade, but no pro.

P7: Be VERY CAREFUL starting up the next pitch as there are several LARGE and LOOSE death blocks. Easily avoided, just watch what you pull on. Climb this left side of the ridge back up to and on the ridge proper. Continue up to a semi-hanging belay on the right. Search for the best crack on the right.

P8: Climb up the ridge, trending right till you're almost in a chimney with the dropoff just on the right. Place an excellent small cam in a semi-hidden crack and climb straight up the face with an exciting mantel to the ridge. 2 pins to belay from, one is 10' above the first.

P9: Direct variation: Climb straight up the sweet looking groove avoiding the loose rock in the very center of the groove corner. Good pro on the left side face. Excellent 5.8 climbing! Belay at a 2 pin anchor just above the groove.

P9 original route?: Trend hard right and up a grey wall with jug holds to gain the scree ledge. I didn't climb this, so not 100% sure about the desc.

P10: Somewhat confusing. Climb up and left to clip a pin, follow a crack up and head right on easier ground, then back left to a mantel onto a scree shelf. A #3 RP (micro nut) protects the 5.6 mantel. Carefully head up the scree slope (very loose) and climb one more short rock band (good cam placement) to another scree slope. Belay off a fixed pin (at the foot of the headwall) and a #3 cam in a ledge crack on the left. [KL]: Now there is a 2 pin belay at ground level

P11: Climb the steep yellow juggy short 5m wall just above and right of the pin. Pro is crap and rock is crap, but it's really short above a huge flat scree ledge. Once on top, saunter across scree to back wall and shiny 2 bolt anchor. High five you're second when they arrive and slam summit brews in preparation for the epic rap. [KL]: A micro-cam may protect the opening moves
Ken Lee
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