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Case of the Missing Bolts
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TOPIC: Case of the Missing Bolts
#363
Case of the Missing Bolts 4 Years, 1 Month ago  
Apparently, the Bow Valley has a bolt thief. I initially didn't believe it, but there are is a lot of missing hardware out there (www.facebook.com/KCPublicSafety).

Many of the bolts and anchors are in places only a climber could get to. The thief/vandal is taking the hanger or anchor, and replacing the nut afterwards. They have not started chopping bolts. This is beyond comprehension. If someone is against a particular bolt, the bolt is permanently removed by "chopping", and then lets the climbing community know that it was chopped and why they think the person who put it there was an idiot. This then starts a bolting war, which usually causes way more damage to the rock than just leaving the original bolt. (www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1806598...hopping-at-Sugarloaf).

The second option is someone stealing the gear for money. But, hangers are worth about $2.50 new and an anchor $10. The resale market is non-existent, so stealing the gear worth no more than a few dollars on the black market. Furthermore, TABVAR provides free hardware for new routes, so again, there is no point.

A missing bolt can be incredibly unsafe if a party is trusting its existence to get down safely, so letting people know it is gone is really important.

Anyhow, this thread is created for two reasons.
1) To let people know that they should start sport climbing with extra hangers, nuts, washers and a wrench.
2) To help document where there are missing hangers and anchors so that if someone is headed that way, they can be replaced (contact me if you need hangers or anchors, I might have some spares).

The Industrial Playground at Tunnel Mountain has three missing anchors and about a dozen missing first hangers. The hangers aren't a big deal as the second bolts aren't far off the deck, but the missing anchors are as there isn't much to rap off of.

Apparently, someone put in an extra anchor on the rap of the Fold on Mount Kidd to break the 58 m rap into to ~30 m raps. That anchor has gone missing. Don't bring a single or you will be going home without doing the climb (like the pair we saw today), or without your rope (you will need to fix it to the anchor to get off).

Please post if you find other missing hardware and/or fix it.

Thank you
Matthew Breakey
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#364
Re:Case of the Missing Bolts 4 Years, 1 Month ago  
The Funky Town area just a few meters up from the Industrial Playground has also some missing hangers and stations.

The climb "Look mom, No hands" has no anchor left (just the bolt stubs). You can cross over to the first statoin of "Funky Town" if you still wanna climb it.

The climb "Funky Town" itself is also missing the two first bolts on pitch one. Right now it is safer to climb "Look mom,..." to reach the first station. Above the first station is a intermediate station directly under pitch two, which is missing too, and the next hanger is missing as well. The intermediate station is not necessary for climbing and rappelling (with a single 60m) and the second hanger is not too difficult to reach compared to what expects you further up. So Funky Town is still good for climbing. It still might scare off some people and a fall from there will be a long one. It would be nice if somebody could replace the hangers and stations and post it here.
Tobias Link
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Last Edit: 2014/07/17 12:00 By 68394.
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#365
Re:Case of the Missing Bolts 4 Years, 1 Month ago  
Holy hell that's terrifying. I wonder if it's worthwhile for the club to buy a pile of bolt hangers (go for the bulk discount) and then make them available to members who are willing to replace some of these missing hangers...
Phil Tomlinson
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