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Trip Report: Smith Rocks Oregon
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TOPIC: Trip Report: Smith Rocks Oregon
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Trip Report: Smith Rocks Oregon 4 Years, 4 Months ago  
This is going to be a disjointed trip report:

A quote from Tyler:

"That trip was skookum!! I had to look it up "

Principal meaning of skookum;
It has a range of positive meanings. The word can mean 'good,' 'strong,'[2] 'best,' 'powerful,' 'ultimate,' or 'brave.' Something can be skookum meaning 'really good' or 'right on! 'excellent!', or it can be 'tough' or 'durable.' A skookum burger is either a big[3] or a really tasty hamburger, or both. Homecooked food described as skookum, is delicious and hearty. A person described as skookum, has a purpose and is on solid ground, and in good health and spirits. When used in reference to another person, e.g. "he's skookum," it conveys connotations of trustworthiness, reliability and honesty as well as (possibly but not necessarily) strength and size.

With no line-up at the border, Smith Rocks is a 15 hour drive. With 4 people and 9 days of climbing and camping gear in a Matrix, it is a pretty crammed drive as well. With 4 in the car, we were able to drive right through the night with short shifts at the wheel (driving was the most coveted spot because it had the most leg room). We even climbed a bit on our first day.

Smith Rocks is a State Park, making it immune from Republican fiscal wrath. The camping is awesome at $5/person/night, inclusive of a shower. The best part is that there is no limit to the number of tents in the bivy area, so you don't have to wait in line at 10 am, just to get a spot to stay. Parks could learn a thing or two from Smith.

The rock is a mixture of Tuff and Columnar Basalt in two separate, but close areas. The climbing is very different between the two types of rock. The Tuff is mostly sport with some trad and the basalt is the opposite. The basalt is beautiful splitter cracks and stem boxes with no holds (fun!). The Tuff is steep climbing on pebbles cemented in the rock. Very spooky until you realize that each of those pebbles have been pulled on 20 times a day for the last 40 years. All the pebbles that are coming out, have done so many years ago.

Nine days of climbing barely scraped the surface of all the climbing to be had. Distractions include the 7 micro-brewery's in nearby Bend, $15 for 5L of wine, Trader Joe's, REI, corn mazes, two climbing shops, photography and possible excursions to nearby volcano's.

The library has acquired the guidebook to Smith, check it out if you are interested or ask Tyler, Mark, Charlie, Matt, Heather, Ken, Kyle or Jeff for beta. Climb the Monkey!

Pictures: plus.google.com/photos/10867271756621703...hkey=CK6K9Y_Yg-L71QE
Matthew Breakey
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