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Mount Willingdon
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TOPIC: Mount Willingdon
#296
Mount Willingdon 4 Years, 8 Months ago  
Headed up to Mount Willingdon via Quartzite Col and return via Fish Lakes and figured I would leave a mountain condition report.

The Quartzite approach is in good shape with a cairn marking the start of the trail just before the bridge at 4-5 km. The descent from Quartzite col is either hard and steep snow, or wet mud above cliffs. Neither very nice due to a ton of loose rock and I strongly recommend a helmet.

Pipestone and Siffleur valleys are beautiful this time of year with the fireweed a deep purple/red, the willows a bright yellow, and all the other foliage a vibrant green. Temperature was +8C at 2300 m overnight.

Mount Willingdon is free of snow. Someone has fixed a rope over the cliff band near the summit (climb the first half-step, then head left to the end of the large chossy ledge). The rope (~8.5 mm and old) has been secured in a hole in the rock at the bottom and 1 pin and 2 nuts at the top. Climbing the cliff at the first spot that is encountered works well, but the choss just above the sloping ledges is far scarier than the actual climb. Someone elected to rap off the following anchor rather than down climb or look 20 m north for the existing anchor. For scale, the carabiner is a neutrino, one of the smallest on the market.



Distances are ~1110 m gross elevation gain and 17 km to Devon Lake Bivy via Quartzite col. Mount Willingdon is ~1100 m and 7 km return to the Bivy and the exit via Fish Lakes is ~820 m gross elevation gain and 30 km (net loss of 600 m). The trail via Fish Lakes is much better than Quartzite and travels much quicker resulting in comparable travel times (8 hours versus just under 7, 6 hours if you don't get lost, for Quartzite).
Matthew Breakey
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#297
Re:Mount Willingdon 4 Years, 8 Months ago  
A scree bollard! Nice find!
Mark Carlson
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