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Cragging in the Bugboos, 4x4 style
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TOPIC: Cragging in the Bugboos, 4x4 style
#287
Cragging in the Bugboos, 4x4 style 5 Years ago  
Bugabagged: (Adjective) what happens when you go cragging in the Bugaboos.
Synonyms: buga-weary, buga-worn-out, buga-really-darn-exhausted

I guess I should explain myself as my title is a bit misleading. Although the Bugaboo parking is 50 km up a logging road, my fully-laden, front wheel drive Matrix (4 climbers and all of their crap) managed to make it to the parking lot at an average speed of 50 km/hr without busting an oil pan or bottoming out, so there was no vehicular 4x4ing. The 4x4ing was leaving work for the Bugs at 4 pm on Friday and leaving the Bugs at 4 pm on Sunday for home. Due to logging up the Bugaboo FSR, the road is in near perfect shape.

Cragging at the Bugaboos might not be the technically correct term, but there is strong evidence that it is.

  1. Most people wear approach shoes, even on the glacier. And yes, crampons do fit on approach shoes.

  2. Applebee campground sure has the feeling of a crag campground complete with many, genuinely nice people from all over the place, all excited to be there.

  3. Line-ups on popular climbs are insane. Paddle flake and McTech Arete had massive queues with up to 5 parties on the route at one time. That is pretty good for a route that is 6 pitches long. The guidebook has provided a star system which tells you how many parties to expect on a climb. On Snowpatch Spire, there were 3 parties on Sunshine crack (3 stars), 2 on Surfs up (2 stars), 1 on Wildflowers (1 star), 1 on Buckingham (1 star) and three on Snowpatch route (3 stars). That means that McTech Arete must be a five star climb.

  4. Applebee campground is not that far from town (8 hours there and 7 hours back, all in). The trail in is well beaten and easily done at night. In fact, it is nicer at night due to cool temperatures and everything seems shorter and smaller when you can't see it. If you show up to the parking lot at mid-night, pissing rain and pitch black, don't expect to be the only ones on the trail (in either direction).


B-S col is in good shape, but the snow bridge across the 'shrund is getting thinner and thinner. The col is a gong show with parties demonstrating every type of strategy imaginable. Few rope up on the way up, but most use a rope on the way down with some slinging horns 50 m from bolt anchors. There is a fixed line to add in line-ups and general faff. Crampons are very useful at the top of the col, might as well put them on when it is safe.

All around a fun trip and a special thanks to Tyler for his immense haul of goodies that he was willing to share.
Matthew Breakey
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Last Edit: 2013/08/13 20:27 By 66876.
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