• ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
  • ACC Calgary
Welcome, Guest
Please Login    Lost Password?

Update to Normal Route up Tower of Babel (5.8)
(1 viewing) (1) Guest
Go to bottomPage: 1
TOPIC: Update to Normal Route up Tower of Babel (5.8)
#282
Update to Normal Route up Tower of Babel (5.8) 4 Years, 7 Months ago  
Random Notes in no particular order of importance:
1) There appears to be a number of shiny rappel anchors on the top of pitch 1, 2, 4 and 5. Did not locate any more. There are two nice and shiny bolts on pitch 2. I might normally be opposed to retro bolting classic routes, but the Tower of Babel is comprised of alternating layers of different layers of choss. The shale layers are really loose (i.e. hand hold rips off) and the quartzite layers are much more compact, but still broken (the entire fridge sized rock that you are clinging onto teeters off). So the bolts were rather welcome as they are in the best rock available in the really loose sections.
2) If you run pitch 2 through 4 together, you will need a 61 m rope (or a very long anchor), arms of steel to deal with the rope drag and walkie talkies.
3) There is a pretty cam (larger than #3 camelot) over-cammed in a crack parallel to the correct crack below anchor 5. If the route is climbed to the anchor, removing the cam is very difficult because the second has a 5 m pendulum across some pretty sharp rocks. However, if a gear or multi-small tree belay is made at the top of the wrong crack on the climbers right of the anchor, the second has a reasonable chance of unsticking the cam without slicing both of their ropes if they fall.
4) 5 finger KSOs work not too badly for scree skiing, who would have thought! You even get the strange experience of small bits of gravel sifting between your toes (not painful even though it sound like it should really hurt).
5) Tower of babel is technically within the Moraine Lake 4 person hiking area (due to bears) even though the climb is within 800 m of the car park.
6) Apparently, starting motorcycles sound like falling rock which is only relevant when you are climbing 800 m from a rather large car park.
Matthew Breakey
Admin
Posts: 82
User Offline Click here to see the profile of this user
Last Edit: 2013/07/23 06:26 By 66876.
The administrator has disabled public write access.
 
Go to topPage: 1
get the latest posts directly to your desktop